Sunday, September 30, 2012

Quick Start Your Home Equity With Rent To Your Home

What is your rental home?

* Rent your home is a dream house for rent by the end of the period, you have the opportunity to buy a house.
* In the meantime, you are renting, your monthly premium rate is credited to your final price of the property.
* At the beginning, it is necessary to make a preliminary pre-payment option that allows you to buy the house at the end of the program. It is traditionally less than the bank requires it.
* You can move the home and immediately think of it as your own.

What is the best candidate for your rental home?

* Rental house is for those who can not get traditional loans from your bank or perhaps a mortgage broker.
* They make revenue, but they either have hit a bump in their credit or they do not have the downpayment.
* They consider the importance of having their homes.
All lease their programs generally have a similar concept. The difference is that you can often find the three key variables:

A) an advance opportunity to be

2) the number of credits each month

3) kind of home

Understanding each one and how you operate the program is necessary, otherwise you may be exhausted.

Advance payment of choice is usually between 2-4% of the current asking price of the house. Typical monthly credits vary from 10% -20% of the actual monthly installments. The house itself should be a good area with good options. It should be well maintained with recent updates to windows, roof and furnace.

You should also understand what other payment obligations you may have. The typical rent their homes have yet to hire their own buyer is responsible for repairs in a given amount of care to admit (if maybe a townhouse condo), as well as the content of insurance cover for personal items. Real estate taxes and property insurance usually takes care of the owner.

During the program, make sure you get assistance in determining if you qualify for the program at the end of the house. If you can not get to let their options usually do not return any money already paid. The landlord can view the program, but you need to know about the various scenarios that may occur with the aim of the program.

As with any important step, do your due diligence is an important part. Determine what you're entering into now, and how it will affect your future.

Rent your home may be on your way toward a home.

Tim in their rental program for prospective home owners. It focuses southwestern Ontario, Canada.





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Saturday, September 29, 2012

Snowshoe

This article is about snow footwear. For the resort, see Snowshoe Mountain. For the hare, see Snowshoe Hare. For other uses, see Snowshoe (disambiguation).

Snowshoes, sometimes colloquially referred to as webs, are footwear for walking over snow. Snowshoes work by distributing the weight of the person over a larger area so that the person's foot doesn't sink completely into the snow, a quality called "flotation".


<a rel="nofollow" onclick="javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackPageview', '/outgoing/article_exit_link/625802']);" href="http://www.himfr.com/buy-charmed_top/">charmed top</a>Traditional snowshoes have a hardwood frame with rawhide lacings. Some modern snowshoes are similar, but most are made of light metal while others are a single piece of plastic attached to the foot to spread the weight. In addition to distributing the weight, snowshoes are generally raised at the toe for maneuverability. They must not accumulate snow, hence the latticework, and require bindings to attach them to the feet. While today they are mainly used for recreation, primarily by hikers and runners who like to continue their hobby in wintertime, in the past they were essential tools for fur traders, trappers and anyone whose life or living depended on the ability to get around in areas of deep and frequent snowfall. Even today, snowshoes are necessary equipment for forest rangers and others who must be able to get around areas inaccessible to motorized vehicles when the snow is deep.


Before humanity built snowshoes, nature provided examples. Several animals, most notably the snowshoe hare, had evolved over the years with oversized feet enabling them to move more quickly through deep snow.


The origin and age of snowshoes are not precisely known, although historians believe they were invented from 4,000 to 6,000 years ago, probably starting in Central Asia.[citation needed] Brit ish archaeologist Jacqui Wood hypothesized that the equipment interpreted to be the frame of a backpack of the Chalcolithic mummy tzi was actually part of a snowshoe.[1] Strabo wrote that the inhabitants of the Caucasus used to attach flat surfaces of leather under their feet and that the Armenians used round wooden surfaces, something akin to blocks, instead. However, the "traditional" webbed snowshoe as we know it today had direct origins to Northern First Nations people, e.g., the Huron, Cree, and so forth. Samuel de Champlain wrote, referencing the Huron and Algonquin First Nations, in his travel memoirs (V.III, pg. 164), "Winter, when there is much snow, they (the Indians) make a kind of snowshoe that are two to three times larger than those in France, that they tie to their feet, and thus go on the snow, without sinking into it, otherwise they would not be able to hunt or go from one location to the other".


Two groups of snowshoe pioneers diverged early on , setting patterns that can still be seen today. One group abandoned the snowshoe as it migrated north to what is now Scandinavia, eventually turning the design into the forerunners of the Nordic ski. The other went northeast, eventually crossing the Bering Strait into North America.


Here, their descendants developed the most advanced and diverse snowshoes prior to European exploration and colonization. Nearly every Native American tribe developed its own particular shape of shoe, the simplest and most primitive being those of the far north. The Inuit have two styles, one being triangular in shape and about 18 inches (45 cm) in length, and the other almost circular, both reflecting the need for high flotation in deep, loose and powdery snow. However, contrary to popular perception, the Inuit did not use their snowshoes much since they did most of their foot travel in winter over sea ice or on the tundra, where snow does not pile up deeply.


Southward the shoe becomes gradually narrower and longer, the largest being the hunting snow-shoe of the Cree, which is nearly 6ft (1.8m) long and turned up at the toe. Even smaller models, developed most notably by the Iroquois, are narrower and shorter, reflecting the need for maneuverability in forested areas where wetter and shallower snow cover during winter made flotation less important.


The Plains Indians wore snowshoes on their wintertime buffalo hunts before horses were introduced. Despite their great diversity in form, snowshoes were, in fact, one of the few cultural elements common to all First Nations tribes that lived where the winters were snowy, in particular, the Northern regions.


Snowshoes were slowly adopted by Europeans in what became Canada and the United States, with the French voyageurs well in advance of British settlers. According to the Encyclop?dia Britannica, French Voyageurs were primarily 18th and 19th century French Canadian fur traders who explored the frontier waterways by canoe. Superior French snowshoeing skill almost turned the French and Indian War, a conflict that saw two engagements named the Battle on Snowshoes, to their favor.


But the British were quick learners. The Oxford English Dictionary reports the term being used in English as early as 1674. Sixteen years later, after a French-Indian raiding party attacked a British settlement near what is today Schenectady, New York, the British took to their own snowshoes and pursued the attackers for almost 50 miles (90 km), ultimately recovering both people and goods taken by their attackers.


The "teardrop" snowshoes worn by lumberjacks are about 40 inches (1 m) long and broad in proportion, while the tracker's shoe is over 5feet (1.5m) long and very narrow. This form, the stereotypical snowshoe, resembles a tennis racquet, and indeed the French term is raquette de neige.


This form was copied by the Canadi an snowshoe clubs of the late 18th century. Originally founded for military training purposes, they became the earliest recreational users of snowshoes.


The snowshoe clubs such as the Montreal Snowshoe club (1840) shortened the teardrop to about 40 inches long (110 cm) and 15inches (380mm) to 18inches (460mm) broad, slightly turned up at the toe and terminating in a kind of tail behind. This is made very light for racing purposes, but much stouter for touring or hunting. The tail keeps the shoe straight while walking.


Another variant, the "bearpaw," ends in a curved heel instead of a tail. While many early enthusiasts found this more difficult to learn on, as they were thicker in the middle and rather cumbersome, they did have the advantage of being easier to pack and nimbler in tight spaces. Two forms of traditional bearpaw snowshoes developed; an eastern version used by "spruce gummers" consisting of an oval frame with wooden cross braces, and a w estern version with a rounded triangular frame and no wooden bracing.


Traditional snowshoes are made of a single strip of some tough wood, usually white ash, curved round and fastened together at the ends and supported in the middle by a light cross-bar, the space within the frame thus made being filled with a close webbing of dressed caribou or neat's-hide strips, leaving a small opening just behind the cross-bar for the toe of the moccasined foot. They are fastened to the moccasin by leather thongs, sometimes by buckles. Such shoes are still made and sold by native peoples.


Outside of indigenous populations and some competitions such as Arctic Winter Games, very few of the old-fashioned snowshoes are actually used by enthusiasts anymore, although some value them for the artisanship involved in their construction. They are most commonly seen as decorations, mounted on walls, or on mantels, in ski lodges.


Even though many enthusiasts pr efer aluminum snowshoes there is still a large group or snowshoe enthusiasts that prefer wooden snowshoes. Wood snowshoes provide more than twice the flotation that metal snow shoes do while weighing the same. Plus the frames on wood snowshoes can freeze like their metal counterparts. Many enthusiasts also prefer a wood snowshoes because they are very quiet.


While recreational use of snowshoes began with snowshoe clubs in Quebec, Canada (who held events where races and hikes were combined with fine food and drink), the manufacture of snowshoes for recreational purposes really began in the late 19th century, when serious recreational use became more widespread.


In the late 20th century the snowshoe underwent a radical redesign. It started in the 1950s when the Vermont-based Tubbs company created the Green Mountain Bearpaw, which combined the shortness of that style with an even narrower width than had previously been used. This rapidly became one of the most popular snowshoes of its day.


In 1972, experimenting with new designs in Washington's Cascade Mountains, Gene and Bill Prater created the snowshoe as we know it today. They began using aluminum tubing and replaced the lace with neoprene and nylon decking. To make them easier to use in mountaineering, the Praters developed a hinged binding and added cleats to the bottom of the shoe.


The Sherpa Snowshoe company started manufacturing these "Western" shoes and they proved very popular. Eastern snowshoers were a bit more skeptical at first, believing that the style was unnecessary in the east, until the Praters demonstrated their improved effectiveness on New Hampshire's Mount Washington. In time all users switched to the Sherpas.


These use an aluminum or stainless steel frame and take advantage of technical advances in plastics and injection molding to make a lighter and more durable shoe. They require little maintenance, and usually incorporate aggressive crampons.


S ome, such as those made by Mountain Safety Research, use no metal at all and also come with detachable tail extenders. Newer models have heel-lifters, called "ascenders", that flip up to facilitate hill climbing.


The use of solid decking in place of the standard latticework of lacing came as a surprise to many enthusiasts, since it challenged a long-held belief that the lattice was necessary to prevent snow from accumulating on the shoe. In practice, however, it seems that very little snow comes through the openings in either type of shoe.


Neoprene/nylon decks also displayed superior water resistance, neither stretching as rawhide will when wet nor requiring annual treatment with shellac, features that were immediately appreciated. Eventually they were replaced with even lighter materials such as polypropylene.


These more athletic designs have helped the sport enjoy a renaissance after a period of eclipse when winter recreationists show ed more interest in skiing. In the U.S., the number of snowshoers tripled during the 1990s.


In fact, ski resorts with available land are beginning to offer snowshoe trails to visitors, and some popular hiking areas are almost as busy in the colder months as they are on warm summer weekends.


As many winter recreationists rediscover snowshoeing, many more new models of snowshoe are becoming available. Ski areas and outdoor equipment stores are also offering snowshoes for rent; it is an excellent way for those interested in snowshoeing to decide what type of shoe is right for them.


Snowshoes today are divided into three types: aerobic/running (small and light; not intended for backcountry use); recreational (a bit larger; meant for use in gentle to moderate walks of 3-5 miles (5-8 km) at a time) and mountaineering (the largest, meant for serious hill-climbing, long-distance trips and off-trail use). Sizes are often given in inches, even th ough snowshoes are nowhere near perfectly rectangular. Mountaineering shoes can be at least 30 inches (76 cm) long by 10 inches (25 cm) wide; a lighter pair of racing shoes can be slightly narrower and 25 inches (64 cm) or shorter.


Regardless of configuration, all wooden shoes are referred to as "traditional" and all shoes made of other materials are called "modern."


Not withstanding these variations in planned use, larger users should plan on buying larger snowshoes. A common formula is that for every pound (0.45 kg) of body weight, there should be one square inch (6.5 cm) of snowshoe surface per snowshoe to adequately support the wearer. Users should also consider the weight of any gear they will be packing, especially if they expect to break trail. Those planning to travel into deep powder look for even larger shoes.


Many manufacturers now include weight-based flotation ratings for their shoes, although there is no standard for setti ng this as of yet.


When traditional wooden shoes were still popular, it was common to buy the bindings separately, much like downhill skis (and many wooden shoes are still sold this way). They were commonly called "H" bindings, since they consisted of a strap around the heel crossing a strap around the toe and one at the instep, forming a rough version of that letter.


On modern shoes, there are two styles of binding: limited-rotation, in which the toe is not allowed to go below the decking; and free-rotation, in which it is. The former is preferred for racing purposes as it prevents the tail from dragging, the latter for climbing steep slopes as it allows kick steps. The heel is always left free.


A series of straps, usually three, are used to fasten the foot to the snowshoe. Some styles of binding utilize a cup for the toe. It is important that a user be able to manipulate these straps easily, as removing or securing the foot often must be done outdoors in cold weather with bare hands, exposing him or her to the possibility of frostbite.


The loose ends of the straps are always placed outside the direction of travel to avoid stepping on them while snowshoeing. Under some conditions, however, accumulations of snow develop into ball-shaped attachments to them, which must periodically be removed as they become annoying.


In 1994, Bill torres and a younger associate developed the step-in binding, designed to make it easier for snowshoers wearing hard-shelled plastic boots (serious mountaineers) to change from snowshoes to crampons and back again as needed.


Snowshoers often use trekking poles as an accessory to help them keep their balance on the snow. Some manufacturers have begun making special snowshoeing models of their poles, with larger baskets more like those found on ski poles (which can also be used). It is not necessary to have them, however.


Other tha n that, no other special accessories are required. Most types of footwear can be worn with snowshoes, although hiking boots are the preferred choice among most recreational users (except racers, who prefer running shoes). Ski boots, however, will not work with snowshoes, requiring backcountry skiers to carry other footwear for the snowshoe portion of their trip.


If going into deep snow, snowshoers will often take along gaiters to keep snow from getting into their boots from above. Some manufacturers make their snowshoes with boot or toe covers to provide the same protection.


A carrier of some type is also advisable, particularly if the trip will not take place entirely on snowshoes. Some backpack manufacturers have designed special packs with "daisy chains," strips of looped nylon webbing on which the shoes can be secured for the duration of the journey. Snowshoe manufacturers, too, have begun including carriers and tote bags for their products, if for no other reason than to prevent the often-sharp cleats on the bottom from damaging surfaces they come in contact with.


Since snowshoeing is commonly done in cold weather, users typically prepare for it by dressing in layers and carrying the appropriate equipment.


When putting on snowshoes, left is distinguished from right by which way the loose ends of the binding straps point: always outward, to avoid stepping on them repeatedly.


Snowshoes function best when there is enough snow beneath them to pack a layer between them and the ground, usually at a depth of 8 inches (20 cm) or more.


Snowshoeing can be done anywhere there is sufficient snow. There is no need to go to a special area of any kind, although such areas may offer some amenities not found in the typical woodlot or golf course.


It is often said by snowshoers that if you can walk, you can snowshoe. This is true, but snowshoeing properly requires som e slight adjustments to walking.


The method of walking is to lift the shoes slightly and slide the overlapping inner edges over each other, thus avoiding the unnatural and fatiguing "straddle-gait" that would otherwise be necessary. A snowshoer must be willing to roll his or her feet slightly as well. An exaggerated stride works best when starting out, particularly with larger or traditional shoes.


New snowshoers find the learning curve to be quite steep. It helps that accidental, humiliating and potentially injurious falls are far less common to snowshoeing than other winter sports.


Walking skills are easily transferrable to straightforward snowshoe travel, but this is not always the case with turning around. While a snowshoer with space to do so can, and usually does, simply walk in a small semicircle, on a steep slope or in close quarters such as a boreal forest this may be impractical or impossible. It is thus necessary in such circ umstances to execute a "kick turn" similar to the one employed on skis: lifting one foot high enough to keep the entire snowshoe in the air while keeping the other planted, putting the foot at a [180 degree angle] and parallel to the other (or as close as possible for the situation and the snowshoer's physical comfort), then planting it on the snow and quickly repeating the action with the other foot. This is much easier to accomplish with poles.


Kick turns do, however, put considerable strain on the hip muscles, and if many have to be made during a snowshoeing trip, these can be very sore the next day.


While the cleating and traction improvements to modern snowshoes have greatly enhanced snowshoers' climbing abilities, on very steep slopes it is still beneficial to make "kick steps," kicking the toes of the shoes into the snow to create a kind of snow stairs for the next traveler to use.


Alternatively, snowshoers can use two techniques borrowed from skis: the herringbone (walking uphill with the shoes spread outward at an angle to increase their support) and the sidestep.


Once a trail has been broken up a mountain or hill, snowshoers often find a way to speed up the return trip that manages to also be fun and rests the leg muscles: glissading the trail, or sliding down on their buttocks. This does not damage the trail, and in fact helps pack the snow better for later users.


Great distances can be descended by glissading, and any number of methods to control one's speed and direction are available to the experienced snowshoer: the shoes, poles, hands (if properly gloved), body English and self-arrest techniques.


In situations where they must break trail downhill and thus cannot glissade, snowshoers sometimes run downhill in exaggerated steps, sliding slightly on the snow as they do, an option sometimes called "step sliding." If carrying poles and properly experienced, they can also employ skiing techniques such as telemarking.


On newfallen snow it is necessary for a snowshoer to "break" a trail. This is very exhausting (it may require up to 50% more energy than simply following behind) even on level terrain, and frequently in groups this work is shared among all participants, sometimes in shifts as short as three minutes. It is thus not recommended to snowshoe solo, particularly up a mountain, without a broken route.


A trail breaker can improve the quality of the ensuing route by using a technique, similar to the hiking rest step, called "stamping": pausing momentarily after each step before putting full weight on the foot. This helps smooth the snow underneath and compacts it even better for the next user.


A well-broken trail is usually a rut in the snow about 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) deep and 2 feet (61 cm) wide. While it may appear after heavy use as if it is possible to "bareboot" or walk it withou t benefit of snowshoes, this practice is frowned upon by serious snowshoers as it leads to "postholing," or roughening of the trail from places where boots have fallen through (initial appearances to the contrary, the snow in a broken trail is not sufficiently packed to support the more concentrated weight of a foot).






A young snowshoer getting up close and personal with nature.


Snowshoeing expands the potential for exercise available in the wintertime. As of 2006, at least 500 American schools, mostly but not exclusively in the Northeast have started offering snowshoe programs in their physical education classes to help combat obesity. It had the added benefit of being gentler on the feet than walking or running the equivalent routes, since snow cushions the foot's impact.


For the same reason, it is less detrimental to the environment, since the snow likewise buffers the earth against the impact of so many hikers and campers, cutting back on trail erosion and other effects of heavy use.


While the cold creates its own safety risks, there is less chance of a hiker getting lost on snowshoes, since they can follow their own trail back.


Snowshoeing makes even familiar hikes different and new. If the snow is deep enough, obstacles such as large boulders and fallen logs can be more easily bypassed. Winter transforms familiar forests into something wonderful and strange, and clearer, bluer skies in winter often afford more sweeping, longer-range views from favorite lookouts than are available in summer situations. The stillness of the air, quiet and snow cover give nature a pristine feel that is sometimes lacking at other times of year.


As Florence Page Jaques put it in her book, Snowshoe Country, "I love the deep silence of the midwinter woods. It is a stillness you can rest your whole weight against ... This silence is so profound you are sure it will hold and last."


Immoderate snowshoeing leads to serious lameness of the feet and ankles which Canadian voyageurs called mal de raquette. Modern snowshoes are much lighter and more comfortable so that lameness caused by snowshoeing is now very rare.


Nonetheless, many snowshoers find that their legs, particularly their calf muscles, take some time to get used to snowshoeing again at the start of each winter. Frequently the first serious trip leaves them sore for several days afterwards.







A snowshoer packing downhill skis.


The resurgence of interest in snowshoeing in the late 20th century was in some part due to snowboarders, who took to them as a way to reach backcountry powder bowls and other areas while they were still banned from most ski areas. Their similarities to snowboards, in shape and binding, led many of them to continue use even after snowboarders were allowed to use most ski slopes.


Downhill skiers, too, found snowshoes useful in reaching the same areas.


Another popular expedition, particularly among hikers, is the "ski-shoe" trip combining a cross-country ski portion on a level, wide trail with a snowshoe up a less skiable section, usually to a mountain summit.


Runners have found that using light snowshoes allows them to continue exercising and racing during winter. Like their warm-weather counterparts, events cover all distances, from sprints of 100 m to the 100 km "Iditashoe." There are even hurdle events.


Snowshoe segments have become common in many multisport events and adventure races, including a required snowshoe segment in the winter quadrathlon. Some competitors in those events like Sally Edwards and Tom Sobal have emerged as stars.


While snowshoe racing has probably been around as long as there have been snowshoes, as an organized sport it is relatively n ew. The United States Snowshoe Association was founded in 1977 to serve as a governing body for competitive snowshoeing. It is headquartered in Corinth, New York, which considers itself the "Snowshoe Capital of the World" as a result. Similar organizations, such as the European Snowshoe Committee and Japan's Chikyu Network, exist in other countries and there is an international competitive level as well.


Snowshoe races are part of the Arctic Winter Games and the winter Special Olympics. However, they are not yet an Olympic event.






Rawhide webbing


The rawhide webbing of traditional snowshoes, as noted above, needed regular waterproofing. Spar varnish is the preferred waterproofing for traditional snowshoes. A light sanding is preferred before 3 coats of spar varnish is applied. Modern snowshoes need no regular maintenance save a sharpening of cleats if desired.


Both kinds of snowshoe, howeve r, can and do break. The most common damage suffered is to the frame, which can be splinted with a stick or piece of wood if necessary. Decking rarely gets broken, but if it is punctured and the hole looks as if it might continue to grow, the best solution is the patching kits made for tents.


Cable ties can serve many purposes in repairing snowshoes. They can splint frames in a pinch, replace a broken rivet, secure a tie or lace, and repair winter clothing as well.





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Friday, September 28, 2012

Sapa tours, tours in sapa, biking tours in sapa, trekking tours in sapa, holidays in sapa, sapa trekking, trekking in sapa

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The trekking tours and trekking holidays to Muong Hoa Valley in Sapa in Vietnam offer the best views of rice terraces as well as hill tribe villages in Sapa in Vietnam. The trekking tours and trekking holidays in Sapa in Vietnam also let travellers explore real life of minority people in Sapa in Vietnam. Sapa trekking tours and sapa trekking holidays also offer great home stay tours to villages in Sapa in Vietnam. The home stay tours in sapa in Vietnam let travelers stay in the home of minority people in Ta Van or Ban Ho villages in Sapa in Vietnam. With the home stay tours and holidays in Sapa in Vietnam, travellers also can enjoy the best trekking path to jungles as well through rice fields in Sapa in Vietnam. The trkking tours and trekking holidays in Sapa in Vietnam also offer travellers wonderful long trekking tours which extend to 6 or 9 days to all villages in Sapa in Vietnam. The long trekking tours and tre kking holidays in Sapa in Vietnam allows you camp by beautiful river and stay overnight in the houses of local people in Sapa in Vietnam. http://bluebelltours.net/vietnam-tours-and-holidays/sapa-tours.htm





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Thursday, September 27, 2012

Nordic Walking Poles - Not All Hiking And Trekking Poles Are Created Equal

Skiers know that one-piece poles are the only option for skiing. And ski racers want one-piece poles that are light and yet super strong. And when it comes to Nordic walking, hiking and trekking poles, one-piece poles prove to be safer, lighter and much more durable. Cheap and flimsy 2-piece and 3-piece poles with twist-locks or flip-locks tend to rattle, vibrate and/or collapse unexpectedly.

The original poles used for hill bounding and ski walking were one-piece poles. EXEL Nordic Walking Poles were the first official "Nordic Walking Poles" based on lightweight yet durable carbon cross country ski poles. Downhill ski poles and trekking poles typically are fatter and much heavier than cross country poles. Adding twist-locks or flip-locks increases vibration and noise (rattle), adds additional weight and provides a weak spot(s) that can allow the poles to fail and/or collapse unexpectedly. I would take one-piece downhill poles over any 2-piece or 3-piece poles, but my first choice and my consistent recommendation is always for REAL Nordic Walking Poles from SWIX and EXEL lightweight, durable and user-friendly.

When EXEL launched Nordic Walking their one-piece poles utilized EXEL's advanced carbon technology and came equipped with comfortable fingerless glove type straps patented by the Salomon Ski Company. EXEL set the standard, but cheap and flimsy twist-lock and flip-lock poles from China have since flooded the market here in the USA.

I love Nordic Walking and cross country skiing because they are silent sports. I like to do my Nordic Walking and skiing in stealth mode and I couldn't tolerate the rattle, clicking and vibration coming from cheap poles from China. Many manufactures of cheap twist-lock and flip-lock poles from China often warn that their poles can not withstand the stress of skiing and other more aggressive uses. Quality one-piece Nordic walking poles can withstand the stress of skiing and hard use. SWIX and EXEL Nordic walking poles have shafts that are identical to quality cross country ski poles super strong, extremely lightweight and hassle free.

Every day at SKIWALKING.COM and the American Nordic Walking System we hear from new customers who had opted to purchase cheap twist-lock or flip-lock poles from other sources by mistake (or received them as gifts) and found that the twist-locks and/or flip-locks were noisy, uncooperative and annoying. New customers tell us that their original poles from EMS, REI, MC Sports, Cabala's, L.L. Bean, Dick's Sporting Goods, Sports Authority, MC Sports, Target, Wal-Mart, misc. websites, did not perform as they had hoped and ended up being returned or sent directly to the landfill. We also hear that many of these stores have floor models that are broken and won't twist-lock or flip-lock securely motivating the customer to do some research and quickly discover our honest assessment of the situation (one-piece poles are safer, lighter, more durable and much more user-friendly).

Emails from happy customers read like this about the huge improvement our one-piece poles are over their original and disappointing twist-lock or flip-lock poles from other sources:

Hi Pete,

I just want to tell you how much I love my new VIP Carbon poles. I received them this past Monday; today is Friday and I have put 26 miles on them already, mostly on asphalt but also some dirt roads, grass and a spongy-muddy high school track. The asphalt paws don't show any sign of wear, none at all! And they give great traction on all the above surfaces.

I can't believe the shock absorption and how comfortable the straps are. I'd initially bought a cheap pair of walking poles from a large discount chain store. The carbide tips wore through the rubber tips in less than 20 miles. Also, the shock absorption wasn't good - you could feel quite a vibration through the arms. Their cheap straps really don't allow one to use the straps for propulsion like your VIP's do. I can use your SWIX poles like Nordic poles are supposed to be used because they ARE Nordic poles. Wow, what a difference. The SWIX poles are like going from a bad ride to a Cadillac.

I just love them.

Lynne

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My poles arrived in great shape... size is perfect, you were right. What a relief not to hear the springs rattle from my trek poles! The lightweight and great straps are an added bonus! Love 'em.

Karla

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Pete:

As I start my fourth year of ski walking, I want to thank you for your excellent product. I started ski walking with Coleman adjustable poles which slipped and rattled, no matter what I did. Thankfully, I

found you and your fine company a few months later. I'm sure that if I had stayed with the cheapo poles I would have given up long ago.

Bill

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Hi Pete -Thanks so much for getting my order completed so promptly. The poles were delivered when I got home from work yesterday. Usually I go to a nearby park, walk 2 miles, and then go home to get the dog to walk another 2. Ski Walking has been a blessing to me! I quickly opened the box and took them with me to try them out.

I started after Christmas break,, improving eating habits using a web site called www.myfooddiary.com. It's the incentive I needed to work towards better health. I also began cross country skiing every day, doing that same 2-mile trail on my way home from work. I think I missed 1 day in the following 2 months until the snow melted in early March. I took off 25 pounds in that time, with eating well and skiing every day. Then, I was worried. How could I replace the same calorie burn in the same amount of time?

So, I went to MC Sports and bought cheap collapsible poles, $29.95. One pole developed a vibration in it which I found very annoying. That's how I found you last Saturday on Amazon. I wish I'd known about you a couple of weeks ago. I love your poles!

Thanks so much for calling me back!!

Your poles are so much more lightweight. I use them in the woods on a dirt/sand trail. I haven't had time to watch your DVD/Video. I love ski walking! I don't feel like it's hard to do, and it's not as boring as working out in some health club. I've checked my heart rate during the walk, and it's between 80-90% of maximum for my age. It takes about a half-hour to do the 2 miles, unless I have to wait too much for the dog to sniff! Using the ipod also helps the workout to go faster.

Anyway, thanks for the great service, and thanks for the poles!

Gail p.s. I'm currently down 37 pounds.

--------

I bought the Nordic Ski Walking poles and love them. My friends whose poles are always collapsing are envious.

Barbara

--------

Hello,

Thanks for your prompt email! I also had a knee injury which caused me to

quit running also. I gained weight, but just got back out and started walking this summer. I added miles and found I could walk very well with a knee brace on. Suddenly, I started walking better w/o limping. I bought some of the cheap adjustable walking poles from Walmart, but then found out about your real Nordic walking poles.

I am a marketing professor, so word of mouth will guide new customers to you! THanks so much for the information. I love my poles.

Glenna

---------

Pete,

I really have enjoyed my poles and not having to worry about them collapsing. More and more people are stopping me and asking me about them and the advantages. I could do an informercial! I dropped off one of my last brochures to a woman today who saw me walking on Saturday and asked me about them. Our new minor league ballpark opened yesterday, so I had my poles and was walking and a woman asked me about them. I didn't have a brochure, but I gave her your e-mail address and she wrote it down. I tell everyone the price is great and the poles are very sturdy. I've put a lot of miles on them. People who know a little more about the poles are very impressed with the quality of the tips, especially the boot-shaped tips..they have told me that they can't find the quality of rubber tips like the ones you have. So, hopefully, more people will be using them and enjoying them as much as I do. I'm getting physical therapy but I know I couldn't walk the distances I do if I didn't hav e your Nordic ski walking poles.

thanks again, you have been very kind to me and to my family,

jan

-----

I've been researching ski walking. I usually walk my farm with my two dogs. I bought a pair of adjustable poles about a month ago. I'm researching because I was immediately impressed with my physical

response to using the poles while walking. I usually come back from a walk with a sore right hip. Since I've been using the poles I have no pain. Also the poles help me balance on uneven terrain. My only

problem is that my poles are adjustable and the tip got caught in a slat on a wooden bridge. I couldn't adjust it and walked with only one pole - what a pain in the bum. Now I see your poles and I wish I had done my research sooner before buying the adjustable poles.

Paula

-------------

Pete

Thanks for your quick response to my email! I am going to return my twist-locking poles on Thursday and then I will call and order a one-piece pair from you. Thank you too for the info that you sent along for me to read. I understand why my adjustable length poles would not be good for me to use.

Talk to you soon,

Jerri

----------------

Wow, do I ever love these poles! They got here on Friday and I've been out every day... walking twice as far as I would have otherwise and feeling so much more balanced when I'm finished... where have you been all my life?! I'd been trying to use my regular ski poles and they were just too heavy.

Great job, great poles! Thanks so much!

Regards,

Jeane

-----------

Pete,

I am super pleased with your one-piece poles. I read your comments about "adjustable" poles and you are so right! I purchased a pair of adjustable walking poles less than a month ago from a large retail chain store.

The adjustables would not stay locked! Have a good day. Marilynn

---------

Hi Pete

Before I got the poles I ordered from you I had two Nordic walking lessons with adjustable poles. While I enjoyed myself, the experience affirmed that I had made the best choice by purchasing lighter, non-adjustable poles because I have arthritis in my hands and wasn't able to adjust the adjustable poles myself, and the weight of the poles was quickly tiring. I'm so happy I ordered poles from you. I love the grip / strap, and overall lightness of the poles. Thanks again, Beverly

-------

We have received feedback from hundreds of individuals that had problems with the cheap/flimsy 2-piece and 3-piece twist-lock and flip-lock poles that they didn't get from us. Every day we receive happy customer feedback from current customers in regard to the quality or our hassle-free SWIX and EXEL one-piece poles. Our 100% positive customer satisfaction ratings indicate that we are doing something right by promoting user-friendly one-piece poles that are sized correctly to each individual's height and backed with a Perfect Length Guarantee. It would be impossible for us to maintain such high customer satisfaction ratings if we promoted twist-lock and/or flip-lock poles.

When looking for Nordic Walking Poles here are some questions you should ask the seller:

1. Are these poles made in China?

* don't get scammed by cheap/flimsy 2-piece and 3-piece poles. If the retailer doesn't know where the poles are made assume they are the cheap twist-lock and/or flip-lock poles from China with consistently poor satisfaction ratings.

2. Are these poles equipped with Salomon Patented Nordic Walking Straps?

* You can't beat the comfortable and patented Nordic Walking Straps from the Salomon Ski Company. During the 2010 Winter Olympics all of the athletes in the Nordic events used racing poles equipped with this type of effective fingerless glove type straps patented by the Salomon Ski Company.

3. Do you carry replacement tips should I misplace one or wear them out?

* many of the cheap Nordic Walking Poles from China do not have replacement parts available. A reputable retailer will size you into the correct length poles and always have a stash of rubber Nordic Walking Tips/Paws on hand to assist customers.

4. How many different lengths of poles do you carry?

* seniors and individuals with balance issues should never get conned into cheap 2-piece or 3-piece twist-lock or flip-lock collapsible poles that tend to rattle, vibrate excessively and/or collapse unexpectedly. Demand quality one-piece poles that are sized correctly.

At the American Nordic Walking System and WWW.SKIWALKING.COM we carry 14 different lengths of REAL Nordic Poles and we can custom build poles for those over 6' 6" at no extra charge ensuring a perfect fit that is backed up by a Perfect Length Guarantee!





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Wednesday, September 26, 2012

How to Set a Table Setting a Dinner Table Properly

Setting a table and table manners go side by side. Proper table setting means locating dishware and tableware in a precise way. If proper instructions are followed, then how to set a table becomes lot easier.

Usually on the name of setting a table, we just put all the stuff such as eating utensils on the table and relax as every thing is done with it. However, table setting etiquettes demands attention. There is a way to proper set a table. Here are some guidelines to learn how to set a table properly.

Do not worry for an upcoming dinner party, just read on the following table manners for proper table setting placement.

Setting a table properly is very important as it makes your food more special. These table manners rules should be followed for a long lasting impression in a dinner party. A thing to remember while setting a table is to place dinner plate when guests sit down.





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Tuesday, September 25, 2012

How To Set A Festive Christmas Table

Whether you are a novice or expert, setting a festive Christmas table can be easy and fun. When I look at my Christmas table all set and decorated, it truly brings in the holiday spirit and warms the cockles of my heart. The thoughts of family and friends permeate throughout my mind and remind me of how truly blessed I am. What a wonderful life I have and the many blessings that have come my way.

As with any type of decorating, you want to have each room compliment each other. For instance, if your Christmas decorating is modern, you want to keep your Christmas Table Setting modern. As you walk into your Dining Room the character of the table should mimic your decorating taste. There are so many different products out there today that it can be difficult to choose but I know that you will find what you need to accomplish this.

Before you being, let's take a minute to go over the basics of table setting.

Keep in mind the following when planning to set your Christmas Table

How many guests are you having, what type of table - round, square or oblong, formal or casual? What type of mood are you looking to create? What do you need to accomplish your "look"?

Table Padding helps with the setting of your festive Christmas Table. Not only does the table padding protect your table finish from liquid spills, hot spots, scratches, dents and nicks it helps to absorb sound and gives the tablecloth a gentle flowing drape and prevents the tablecloth from sliding or pulling.

Table padding is made of felt and vinyl and the soft backing is safer for many modern finishes. Table padding comes in many sizes or can be cut to the size of your table or cut longer to include the drop or overhang. And there is always the option of having a custom made pad for your table.

Tablecloths come in standard sizes for square, round, oblong (rectangle) and oval. Need help figuring out what size and shape of tablecloth you need?

Do you know the difference between and oblong and oval tablecloth? Many time people confuse oblong with oval. An oblong tablecloth is designed to fit a rectangle table with square corners and an oval tablecloth fits an egg-shaped table.

Do you know how to figure out your tablecloth size?Measure the width and length of your table. Add the overhang or drop, which is how long the tablecloth will hang over the side, typically the desired overhang is 10-12 to lap level on dining tables and 15 inches for banquet tables.

When you have these measurements, add the overhang times 2 to each measurement of your table. You don't want the tablecloth to be too long. Your guests should be able to be able to sit and not have the tablecloth touch their legs, you don't want anyone pulling that tablecloth!!

Example: If your table size is 30x72 inches and the desired drop is 10 inches you would figure it this way:10 inch (drop size) X 2 would be 20 inchesAdd the 30" (from your table measurement) to the 20" (doubled desired drop) = 50 inchesAdd the 72" (from your table measurement) to the 20" (doubled desired drop) = 92 inches

The perfect cloth size for your table would be 50 X 92 inches. Since tablecloths come in standard sizes you would then select the size closest to those figures.

I have a rectangle table and start with a biege tablecloth, then I use a square green colored tablecloth laid down with the points showing at the mid point of the table, add a table runner and use a small corresponding table square. Layering Looks stunning!!!

I am a big fan of Table Runners, they just add a little something extra to your table setting and can be used to compliment your linens, china and decor. Table runners can also be used to hide a leaf in the table. Table runners are sometimes called "scarves" and are pieces of material that run lengthwise or across your table. Table runners can run within the dimensions of a table or extend into the overhang.

You can really go all out and decorate your chairs. There are many varieties of chair coverings or slipcovers that give your table an even more elegant look.

I use taffeta scarves or runners and tie them around the back of the chair with a big bow and place a flower in the middle of the bow. This creates a stunning and polished look at your festive Christmas table.

There are so many things that you can do with a napkin.

Napkins are a piece of material (made of cloth or paper) used to clean the lips or fingers and for protection of clothing. Napkins can be made of a variety of fabrics including cotton, linen, silk, and cotton/polyester blends. Cotton, Linen, and Silk napkins are typically used for more formal settings while cotton/polyester blends are used for casual everyday dining.

Turning a plain piece of cloth into an exotic swan for instance, brings back my many days in the catering business. Napkin folding can turn your table into an elegant work of art and it is an easy and fun task. Not into napkin folding, then napkin rings are the best thing. There are napkin rings for anyone budget and taste.

The Charger is making a big come back on tables. The charger makes a table look more elegant, whether serving dinner to your family or entertaining the guests.

Chargers are simply under plates that are used at each place setting of a formal table. The charger will be larger than the actual dinner and salad plates used to hold the food. The dinner plate is never placed on the charger. When you are shopping for chargers, place the salad plate or soup bowl, not the dinner plate, on the charger to see how it sizes and coordinates.

The charger should compliment the choices of china, silverware, and dcor of the table setting. A charger may be used with or without placemats, depending on your table setting.

The use of the right charger can add a touch of elegance to the table. By coordinating the design of the table setting, the color choices, and the pattern used for the china, the charger will beautify other pieces and create a sense of an elegant and festive table setting.

I could go on forever about the different types, shapes, sizes and colors of Christmas Dishes, there are so many that are available to you. What it really boils down to is your taste and what you like. For me, I like clean lines and borders and have a set of Mikasa China that I use for all holiday's, ivory dishes with a gold inlaid border. Plain and simple and I use chargers, tablecloths, napkins and decorations to bring in the color of the holiday.

Now on the other hand, many people have a set of Christmas Dishes and Tableware such as Spode, Lennox, Mikasa and the list goes on from the most expensive to the least expensive. It's up to you, your budget and your taste.

Most sets of china come with some basic serving dishes and if you are like me over the years I have accumulated additional serving pieces for my china. Then there are the holiday serving pieces that we save over the years.

But for ease of serving and cleaning, I like to use Stoneware/CorningWare serving dishes, that can easily go from the oven to your table. Stoneware is attractive, microwave proof and even oven proof. Right from your oven to your table, eliminating extra dishes, pots and pans. Another reason you need table padding, to save your table from the heat of serving dishes.

Just as versatile as stoneware is Corning ware, both help eliminate extra chores on a busy Christmas Day and add beauty to your Christmas Table.

Most of us know how to set a table, but for those that need a little refresher here is an overview...

* Forks should go on the left and spoons and knives to the right of the plate* An easy way to remember the correct order to place utensils is that they go in the order in which you use them; so the salad fork goes on the outside left while the larger fork used to eat the main course goes on the inside left. Turn the blade of all knifes so they face toward the plate, why well in midevil times the blade pointing out meant harm to the person next to you.* If you are using chargers, place the salad plate and/or soup bowl on the charger.* Place the side plate or bread and butter plate to the left of your place setting;* Place the wineglass at the tip of the main-course knife. The water glass and any other glasses should be arranged in the order they will be used with the first one on the outside.* The napkins can go under the knife and spoon or on the side plate. If you choose to use napkin holders or fancy folds, the napkin can go on top of the charger plate set up or even in the water glass for a more decorative and elegant place setting.

Truth be told...I leave the place cards to the kids, who have a great time trying figuring out who sits next to who. It's a great touch to create and decorate place cards.

Place the cards either on the charger plate setup or better yet in attractive place card holders which are placed on the charger plate setup or directly on top of the charger plate setup.

Using place or name cards adds a finishing touch on your festive Christmas Table Setting.

What do you say about Glassware? There are so many styles and shapes that just can boggle the mind.

If you are using a Christmas pattern such as Spode, you most likely have the coordinating glassware. Most importantly, set a water glass, wine glass if you serve wine or alcohol and for the more adventurous, a stylish shot glass for the tradition after dinner sambuca with coffee beans.

Finally, for an extra special touch, you could leave a small gift at each place setting. If you shop around in dollar discount stores you can find all kinds of small gift items. Wrap them and use ribbon to give them a holiday look. You could even place the name cards in a frame for your guests to bring home. Opening the gifts will make a great conversation starter when everyone sits down at the table.

Decorating your table with a festive Centerpiece will give your table a festive Christmas feeling. Candlesticks are another great way to decorate your table and add a flair of elegance. You can also use candles and music to create the perfect festive Christmas setting.

The final and finishing touches create a festive Christmas Table Setting!

Ann Cohen is a mom, wife, friend and caterer who love babies, "green", decorating and holiday's. Being able to entertain and decorate on a budget is important today and loves finding that "great deal." To get some more tips on how to's, green and saving money check out How To Set A Festive Christmas Table and browse her selection of how to's.





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Monday, September 24, 2012

How To Set The Perfect Thanksgiving Table

The holidays are fast approaching with Thanksgiving only a few weeks away and we are starting to think about preparing our family feasts. Whether you are serving a small family of 2 or extended family of 20, you can have the picture perfectThanksgiving table. Your Thanksgiving table can be casual or elaborate as you want.

Setting your Thanksgiving table starts with the perfect picture in your mind. The colors of fall are beautiful and intertwined. Choose your colors for your table linens. Personally, I start with a solid color table cloth and compliment the table cloth with a harvest style runner, very eye catching.

Keep in mind the colors of your dishes, compliment the dishes with your corresponding table linens. You can choose a printed table cloth and solid runner or solid table cloth and solid runner, or a solid table cloth with a design embedded, remember that picture in your mind.

Table Padding helps with the setting of your perfect Thanksgiving Table. Not only does the table padding protect your table finish from liquid spills, hot spots, scratches, dents and nicks it helps to absorb sound and gives the tablecloth a gentle flowing drape and prevents the tablecloth from sliding or pulling.

Table padding is made of felt and vinyl and the soft backing is safer for many modern finishes. Table padding comes in many sizes or can be cut to the size of your table or cut longer to include the drop or overhang.

Need help figuring out what size and shape of tablecloth you need? Tablecloths come in square, round, oblong (rectangle), and oval.

Do you know the difference between and oblong and oval tablecloth? Many time people confuse oblong with oval. An oblong tablecloth is designed to fit a rectangle table with square corners and an oval tablecloth fits an egg-shaped table.

Do you know how to figure out your tablecloth size?Measure the width and length of your table. Add the overhang or drop, which is how long the tablecloth will hang over the side, typically the desired overhang is 10-12 to lap level on dining tables and 15 inches for banquet tables.

Once you have these measurements, add the overhang times 2 to each measurement of your table. You don't want the tablecloth to be too long. Your guests should be able to be able to sit and not have the tablecloth touch their legs, you don't want anyone pulling that tablecloth!!

Example: If your table size is 30x72 inches and the desired drop is 12 inches you would figure it this way:12 inch (drop size) X 2 would be 24 inchesAdd the 30" (from your table measurement) to the 24" (doubled desired drop) = 54 inchesAdd the 72" (from your table measurement) to the 24" (doubled desired drop) = 96 inches

The perfect cloth size for your table would be 54 X 96 inches. Tablecloths typically comes in standard sizes you would then select the size closest to those figures.

I happen to be a big fan of Table Runners. Table runners are sometimes called "scarves" and are pieces of material that run lengthwise or across your table. Table runners can run within the dimensions of a table or extend into the overhang.

Table runners have been used for centuries to decorate tables, sideboards and buffets when not in use. Heirlooms were displayed on runners, such as candlesticks, centerpieces and bowls. Table runners have come along way, today they are used for decorations, and are a big trend in table setting.

I think Table Runners add character to a table setting, especially at Thanksgiving and the holidays. They can be used to complement your table linens, used as decorations, to hide a leaf or just let your imagination run wild.

The Charger is making a big come back on tables. The charger makes a table look more elegant, whether serving dinner to your family or entertaining the guests.

Chargers are simply under plates that are used at each place setting of a formal table. The charger will be larger than the actual dinner and salad plates used to hold the food. The dinner plate is never placed on the charger. When you are shopping for chargers, place the salad plate or soup bowl, not the dinner plate, on the charger to see how it sizes and coordinates.

When dinner is served in courses. The appetizer, soup, and salad plates are placed on the charger, creating and elegant look and the charger also helps to keep the area around the diner clean before the entree is served.

The charger should compliment the choices of china, silverware, and dcor of the table setting. A charger may be used with or without placemats, depending on your table setting.

The use of the right charger can add a touch of elegance to the table. By coordinating the design of the table setting, the color choices, and the pattern used for the china, the charger will beautify other pieces and create a sense of an elegant table setting.

A napkin is a napkin or is it?

There are so many things that you can do with a napkin.

Napkins are a piece of material (made of cloth or paper) used to clean the lips or fingers and for protection of clothing. Napkins can be made of a variety of fabrics including cotton, linen, silk, and cotton/polyester blends. Cotton, Linen, and Silk napkins are typically used for more formal settings while cotton/polyester blends are used for casual everyday dining.

Turning a plain piece of cloth into an exotic swan for instance, brings back my many days in the catering business. Napkin folding can turn your table into an elegant work of art and it is an easy and fun task. Not into napkin folding, then napkin rings are the best thing. There are napkin rings for anyone budget and taste.

For ease of serving and cleaning, I like to use Stoneware/CorningWare serving dishes, that can easily go from the oven to your table. Stoneware is attractive, microwave proof and even oven proof. Right from your oven to your table, eliminating extra dishes, pots and pans. Another reason you need table padding, to save your table from the heat of serving dishes.

Just as versatile as stoneware is Corning ware, both help eliminate extra chores on Thanksgiving Day and add beauty to your Thanksgiving Table.

Most of us know how to set a table, but for those that need a little refresher here is an overview...For those who never went to finishing school or who don't set a formal table on a regular basis, let's start with a quick overview on how to set the table:

* Forks should go on the left and spoons and knives to the right of the plate.* An easy way to remember the correct order to place utensils is that they go in the order in which you use them; so the salad fork goes on the outside left while the larger fork used to eat the main course goes on the inside left. Turn the blade of all knifes so they face toward the plate, why well in midevil times the blade pointing out meant harm to the person next to you.* If you are using chargers, place the salad plate and/or soup bowl on the charger.* Place the side plate or bread and butter plate to the left of your place setting;* Place the wineglass at the tip of the main-course knife. The water glass and any other glasses should be arranged in the order they will be used with the first one on the outside.* The napkins can go under the knife and spoon or on the side plate. If you choose to use napkin holders or fancy folds, the napkin can go on top of the charger plate set up or even in the water glass for a more decorative and elegant place setting.

Truth be told...I leave this to the kids, who have a great time trying figuring out who sits next to who. It's a great touch to create and decorate place cards.

Place the cards either on the charger plate setup or better yet in attractive place card holders which are placed on the charger plate setup or directly on top of the charger plate setup.

Using place or name cards adds a finishing touch on your Thanksgiving Table Setting.

What do you say about Glassware? There are so many styles and shapes that just can boggle the mind. Most importantly, set a water glass, wine glass if you serve wine or alcohol and for the more adventurous, a stylish shot glass for the tradition after dinner sambuca with coffee beans.

You could leave a small gift at each place setting. You could even place the name cards in a frame for your guests to bring home.

Decorating your table with a Harvest Centerpiece or Cornucopia will give your table a Thanksgiving feeling. Candlesticks are another great way to decorate your table and add a flair of elegance.

The final and finishing touches create a perfect Thanksgiving Table Setting!

Learn more about setting your Thanksgiving Table at Set The Perfect Thanksgiving Table and make your Thanksgiving picture perfect.

Ann Cohen is a former caterer who loves to entertain and decorate on a budget.





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Sunday, September 23, 2012

Word Tutorial: How to Create Great Tables in Word With Borders And Shading?

A newsletter created with Word tables and the Borders and Shading option

A table with a 3D border

A table with two color-shaded cells and a 3D border

Spruce up the tables you create in Word with borders and shades. These give great looks to the table and attract readers to the data in it. Through the Borders and Shading dialog create borders and shades for the table. Do you know you can even create newsletter templates, using tables and the borders and shading option? Its possible. Checkout the section Step-by-Step Procedure to Create a Newsletter Template using Tables and the Borders and Shading Option in Word.

Borders for a Word Table: Use a variety of styles for the border. Some of these are a dashed line, double lines with curves and 3D bars. Whats more, choose one of the two varieties of 3D style: a raised or inset bar.

Want to create borders only on the left and right side of the table? Thats possible too! Further, you can select a color for the borders from the color palette, and choose a line width different from the default size.

Shading for a Word Table: Make the table even more attractive with the shading effect in Word. Note you can either shade the entire table or just a paragraph or a cell.

Shades, like borders, give a new dimension to tables. Shades have creative uses. For example, for the mast of a newsletter create a 2 X 1 table. Remove its borders. Shade the table. In the first row, type the title of the newsletter. In the second, type info like the Volume and Issue number and Date.

Step-by-Step Procedure to Create a Table with Borders in Word

1. Start Word.

.......................................................................................................................................................

2. Click the Table Icon. Move the cursor over the drop-down grid to highlight the cells to create a table with the required number of rows and columns. Click the last highlighted cell.

Click the Table icon, highlight the first four cells and click

For example, if you need a table with just one row and one column, highlight the first cell of the grid and click. To create a table with two rows and two columns, move the cursor over the first two cells of the first and second rows of the grid. Click the fourth cell.

For this tutorial, lets create a 2 X 2 table as above.

A 2 X 2 table created .......................................................................................................................................................

3. Create a border for the table: Right-click inside the table. From the menu, click Borders and Shading. The Borders and Shading dialog appears.

Right-click inside the table and select Borders and Shading

The Borders and Shading dialog .......................................................................................................................................................

4. Say you want to create borders on all sides of the table with a 3D style: Click the All swatch in the Settings frame.

Click the All swatch to create borders on all sides of the table .......................................................................................................................................................

5. From the Style pull-down menu, select a 3D style. For this tutorial, I have chosen the raised-bar 3D style.

Select a style from the Style pull-down menu

.......................................................................................................................................................

6. From the Color pull-down menu, select a color if you want a color different from the default.

Select a color for the borders

.......................................................................................................................................................

7. From the Width pull-down menu, select a width or accept the default.

.......................................................................................................................................................

8. Click OK. Word creates a border on all sides of the table with the style, color and width you selected.

A 2 X 2 table with a green-color 3D border

.......................................................................................................................................................

9. Use a different style for the border: Lets change the 3D border to a style to one with two curved lines. Click the Style menu down-arrow. Select the style. Click OK. Word applies the style to the borders of the table.

....................................................................................................................................................... .......................................................................................................................................................

Step-by-Step Procedure to Shade a Table Cell in Word

1. Lets shade the two cells of the first row of the 3D table:

Highlight the two cells of the first row of the table with the mouse.

.......................................................................................................................................................

2. Right-click inside the table. From the menu, select Borders and Shading. The Borders and Shading dialog appears.

The Borders and Shading dialog

.......................................................................................................................................................

3. Click the Shading tab.

.......................................................................................................................................................

4. Click a color swatch in the palette in the Fill frame.

Select a color for shading from the color palette

.......................................................................................................................................................

5. In the Apply to pull-down menu on the right, select Cell.

.......................................................................................................................................................

6. Click OK. Word shades the cells.

The two cells of the first row of the table shaded ....................................................................................................................................................... .......................................................................................................................................................

Step-by-Step Procedure to Create a Newsletter Template using Tables and the Borders and Shading Option in Word

Lets use three tables to create a newsletter template. The first table will be a 2 X 1 table. It will be used as the mast for the newsletter. The second table (optional) is for placing graphics. The third table is for the newsletter content. This table will have borders on all sides, but not have the grid.

1. Create the first table, which will be used as the mast: Repeat Step 2 in Step-by-Step Procedure to Create a Table with Borders in Word above.

.......................................................................................................................................................

2. Remove the borders of the table: Right-click inside the table and from the menu, select Borders and Shading. The Borders and Shading dialog appears.

The Borders and Shading dialog

.......................................................................................................................................................

3. Click the three buttons in vertical orientation in the Preview pane to remove the left, middle, and right borders. Click the two buttons in horizontal orientation to remove the top and bottom borders.

Click the buttons in the Preview pane to remove the borders

TIP: If you want to display any border again, click the relevant button in the Preview pane.

.......................................................................................................................................................

4. Shade the table: Click the Shading tab.

.......................................................................................................................................................

5. Select a color from the palette in the Fill frame.

.......................................................................................................................................................

6. In the Apply to menu on the right, select Table (if its not already the default).

.......................................................................................................................................................

7. Click OK. Word shades the table.

Table shaded with green color

.......................................................................................................................................................

8. Type the content for the mast of the newsletter.

Content typed for the mast in the two cells of the table

.......................................................................................................................................................

9. Create the second table (optional): Repeat Step 2 in Step-by-Step Procedure to Create a Table with Borders in Word above and create a 1 X 2 table.

.......................................................................................................................................................

10. Remove the borders of the table as above and place the graphics. To insert a graphic, click Insert > Picture > From File.

Graphic inserted in column 1 and 2 of the table .......................................................................................................................................................

11. Create the third table: Repeat Step 2 in Step-by-Step Procedure to Create a Table with Borders in Word above and create a 1 X 1 table.

.......................................................................................................................................................

12. Apply a new border style to the table: Right-click inside the table and from the menu, select Borders and Shading. The Borders and Shading dialog appears.

.......................................................................................................................................................

13. Select a style from the Style field. For this tutorial, I have used the line pair with curves.

Select a style for the borders

.......................................................................................................................................................

14. Apply a new color to the borders: From the Color field select a color.

.......................................................................................................................................................

15. Click OK. Word creates a new border with the chosen color.

The borders of the table for the content part of the newsletter

.......................................................................................................................................................

16. Type the newsletter content.

A completed newsletter created using tables in Word





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Saturday, September 22, 2012

Altering And Dropping Tables in Mysql

Implementing Database in MySQL - Part 7

Introduction This is part 7 of my series, Implementing Database in MySQL. I assume you have read all the different parts of the series (or equivalent tutorials from elsewhere) up to this point. In this part of the series, we see how to alter and drop tables in the MySQL database.

We are still dealing with data definition. Remember data definition deals with creating of tables, altering tables, dropping tables, creating of indexes and giving different users, privileges to different tables. We have seen how to create tables and give them indexes. In this part of the series we shall see how to alter and drop tables. We shall see how to create user accounts (user name and password) and grant them certain permissions in the next part of the series.

Note: If you cannot see the code or if you think anything is missing (broken link, image absent), just contact me at That is, contact me for the slightest problem you have about what you are reading.

Altering a Table To create a table means to create the table structure (automatically saving the table in the database file). To alter a table, means to alter the table structure. It is not anybody who has the right to alter a table. You will be able to do that now because you are the database administrator (with userID that is root). A database administrator has the rights to do anything in the database.

We shall start by looking at some examples, which alter tables. After that I will give you the complete syntax and explain how to read the complete syntax.

Example We continue with the wholesale example.

- Type the following commands in the command prompt to start the server, connect to it and start the database; enter the password, sql:

cd c: "C:Program FilesMySQLMySQL Server 5.1inmysql" -u root -p USE wholesale;

- Let us add a Total column to the OrderDetails table. Execute the following SQL statement:

ALTER TABLE Orders ADD Total DECIMAL(19,2);

A Total column is a computed value column. You normally do not have to include it; I have done so just for illustration.

Dropping a Table In simple terms the SQL statement syntax to drop a table is:

DROP TABLE table-name;

You will now create a table in the database and then drop it. Dropping a table means erasing the table from the database disk.

- Type and execute the following:

CREATE TABLE Purchase ( purchase_num INTEGER NOT NULL PRIMARY KEY, date_purchased DATE, name CHAR(80) );

You should now have a new table called Purchase.

- Now you will delete the table you have just created. Type the following and execute:

DROP TABLE Purchase;

The new table purchase should have been erased.

Let us now drop the connection, stop the database and stop the server. Type the following and press Enter:

QUIT

Complete Syntax to Alter a Table The complete syntax of the SQL Statement to alter a table is given below; glance through it and read the explanation below it:

2.1.7. ALTER TABLE Syntax

ALTER [ONLINE | OFFLINE] [IGNORE] TABLE tbl_name alter_specification [, alter_specification] ...

alter_specification: table_options | ADD [COLUMN] col_name column_definition [FIRST | AFTER col_name ] | ADD [COLUMN] (col_name column_definition,...) | ADD {INDEX|KEY} [index_name] [index_type] (index_col_name,...) [index_option] ... | ADD [CONSTRAINT [symbol]] PRIMARY KEY [index_type] (index_col_name,...) [index_option] ... | ADD [CONSTRAINT [symbol]] UNIQUE [INDEX|KEY] [index_name] [index_type] (index_col_name,...) [index_option] ... | ADD FULLTEXT [INDEX|KEY] [index_name] (index_col_name,...) [index_option] ... | ADD SPATIAL [INDEX|KEY] [index_name] (index_col_name,...) [index_option] ... | ADD [CONSTRAINT [symbol]] FOREIGN KEY [index_name] (index_col_name,...) reference_definition | ALTER [COLUMN] col_name {SET DEFAULT literal | DROP DEFAULT} | CHANGE [COLUMN] old_col_name new_col_name column_definition [FIRST|AFTER col_name] | MODIFY [COLUMN] col_name column_definition [FIRST | AFTER col_name] | DROP [COLUMN] col_name | DROP PRIMARY KEY | DROP {INDEX|KEY} index_name | DROP FOREIGN KEY fk_symbol | DISABLE KEYS | ENABLE KEYS | RENAME [TO] new_tbl_name | ORDER BY col_name [, col_name] ... | CONVERT TO CHARACTER SET charset_name [COLLATE collation_name] | [DEFAULT] CHARACTER SET [=] charset_name [COLLATE [=] collation_name] | DISCARD TABLESPACE | IMPORT TABLESPACE | partition_options | ADD PARTITION (partition_definition) | DROP PARTITION partition_names | COALESCE PARTITION number | REORGANIZE PARTITION [partition_names INTO (partition_definitions)] | ANALYZE PARTITION {partition_names | ALL } | CHECK PARTITION {partition_names | ALL } | OPTIMIZE PARTITION {partition_names | ALL } | REBUILD PARTITION {partition_names | ALL } | REPAIR PARTITION {partition_names | ALL } | PARTITION BY partitioning_expression | REMOVE PARTITIONING

index_col_name: col_name [(length)] [ASC | DESC]

index_type: USING {BTREE | HASH}

index_option: KEY_BLOCK_SIZE [=] value | index_type | WITH PARSER parser_name

table_options: table_option [[,] table_option] ... (see CREATE TABLE options)

Explaining the Syntax I will just explain how I came about the following statement:

ALTER TABLE Orders ADD Total DECIMAL(19,2);

I used this statement to add a new column.

The complete syntax is in sections. The lower you go down the syntax the more details you find about a word or phrase above in the syntax. In the syntax, | means and/or at that position; anything in square brackets is optional.

The first line in the syntax is:

ALTER [ONLINE | OFFLINE] [IGNORE] TABLE tbl_name alter_specification [, alter_specification] ...

From this first line, I got

ALTER TABLE Orders

for my own statement and I then proceeded to the details of, alter_specification, in the syntax. From the first line of the details of, alter_specification, I got

ADD Total DECIMAL(19,2);

for my statement.

That is the kind of procedure you should follow to determine your own Altering SQL statements. You should apply the same reasoning to understand other syntaxes in MySQL, such as the CREATE TABLE syntax we saw in one of the previous parts of the series.

Time to take a break. Let us stop here and continue in the next part.

Chrys

To arrive at any of the parts of this division, type the corresponding title below in the search box of this page and click Search (use menu if available).

Implementing Database in MySQL - Part 1 Implementing Database in MySQL - Part 2 Implementing Database in MySQL - Part 3 Implementing Database in MySQL - Part 4 Implementing Database in MySQL - Part 5 Implementing Database in MySQL - Part 6 Implementing Database in MySQL - Part 7 Implementing Database in MySQL - Part 8 Implementing Database in MySQL - Part 9 Implementing Database in MySQL - Part 10 Implementing Database in MySQL - Part 11 Implementing Database in MySQL - Part 12 Implementing Database in MySQL - Part 13 Implementing Database in MySQL - Part 14 Implementing Database in MySQL - Part 15





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Friday, September 21, 2012

Temporary Table in Sybase Sql Anywhere

Handling Sybase Events with Triggers and Procedures Using SQL - Part 13 Division 5

Introduction This is part 13 of my series, Handling Sybase Events with Triggers and Stored Procedures Using SQL. This series is the fifth division of my larger series, Database. You must have read all the different parts of the big series (or equivalent tutorials from elsewhere) up to this point. In this part of the series, we look at temporary tables in Sybase SQL Anywhere 12.

Note: If you cannot see the code or if you think anything is missing (broken link, image absent), just contact me at That is, contact me for the slightest problem you have about what you are reading.

Local Temporary Table A temporary table is a table that is saved in a temporary file. A temporary file is a file that will be deleted soon. There are two types of temporary tables: local temporary tables and global temporary tables. In this series we shall deal only with local temporary tables.

A local temporary table is for a connection. It exists as long as the connection is on. If the temporary table is defined inside a compound statement, it will exist as long as the compound statement is operating. You can create a local temporary table for a connection or you can declare a local temporary table in a compound statement.

Local Temporary Table for a Connection You create a temporary table for a connection in the same way that you create a base table, but you precede the table name with the pound sign, #. A simplified syntax is:

CTREATE TABLE #table-name ( { column-definition [ column-constraint ... ] | table-constraint | pctfree }, ... )

Try the following:

CREATE TABLE #Women ( WomanID INTEGER DEFAULT AUTOINCREMENT, Name CHAR(40) INDEX, Address CHAR(60), City CHAR(30), State CHAR(30), Country CHAR(40), Phone CHAR(12),

PRIMARY KEY (WomanID ASC) );

Local Temporary Table for a Compound Statement To create a local temporary table in a compound statement use the syntax (simplified):

DECLARE LOCAL TEMPORARY TABLE table-name ( { column-definition [ column-constraint ... ] | table-constraint | pctfree }, ... )

Now this table will cease to exist when the program is not operating in the compound statement.

So to have a local temporary table in a procedure, you should use the above DECLARE statement. However, if you want a local temporary table in a procedure that would be for the connection (last after the procedure completes), use the following syntax (simplified):

CREATE LOCAL TEMPORARY TABLE table-name ( { column-definition [ column-constraint ... ] | table-constraint | pctfree }, ... )

Note: You cannot use the REFERENCES column-constraint or the FOREIGN KEY table-constraint on a local temporary table.

A temporary table is used like other tables, but you do not want the table saved. We shall see a practical use of this later.

Well, let us end here for this tutorial. We continue in the next part of the series.

Chrys

To arrive at any of the parts of this division, type the corresponding title below in the search box of this page and click Search (use menu if available).

Handling Sybase Events with Triggers and Procedures Using SQL - Part 1 Handling Sybase Events with Triggers and Procedures Using SQL - Part 2 Handling Sybase Events with Triggers and Procedures Using SQL - Part 3 Handling Sybase Events with Triggers and Procedures Using SQL - Part 4 Handling Sybase Events with Triggers and Procedures Using SQL - Part 5 Handling Sybase Events with Triggers and Procedures Using SQL - Part 6 Handling Sybase Events with Triggers and Procedures Using SQL - Part 7 Handling Sybase Events with Triggers and Procedures Using SQL - Part 8 Handling Sybase Events with Triggers and Procedures Using SQL - Part 9 Handling Sybase Events with Triggers and Procedures Using SQL - Part 10 Handling Sybase Events with Triggers and Procedures Using SQL - Part 11 Handling Sybase Events with Triggers and Procedures Using SQL - Part 12 Handling Sybase Events with Triggers and Procedures Using SQL - Part 13 Handling Sybase Events with Triggers and Procedures Using SQL - Part 14 Handling Sybase Events with Triggers and Procedures Using SQL - Part 15 Handling Sybase Events with Triggers and Procedures Using SQL - Part 16





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Thursday, September 20, 2012

Altering And Dropping Tables in Sybase

Implementing Database in Sybase - Part 7 Division 4

Introduction This is part 7 of my series, Implementing Database in Sybase. This series is part of the fourth division of my larger series, Database. I assume you have read all the different parts of the big series (or equivalent tutorials from elsewhere) up to this point. In this part of the series, we see how to alter and drop tables in the Sybase SQL Anywhere 12.

We are still dealing with data definition. Remember data definition deals with creating of tables, altering tables, dropping tables, creating of indexes and giving different users, privileges to different tables. We have seen how to create tables and give them indexes. In this part of the series we shall see how to alter and drop tables. We shall see how to create user accounts (user name and password) and grant them certain permissions in the next part of the series.

Note: If you cannot see the code or if you think anything is missing (broken link, image absent), just contact me at That is, contact me for the slightest problem you have about what you are reading.

Altering a Table To create a table means to create the table structure (automatically saving the table in the database file). To alter a table, means to alter the table structure. It is not anybody who has the right to alter a table. You will be able to do that now because you are the database administrator, since you have the default user ID, DBA. Since you still have the password, sql, it means anybody can do what you have the right to do. To stop others from doing what you can do you should change the password; however for the sake of simplicity, do not do that for this series. A database administrator has the rights to do anything in the database.

We shall start by looking at some examples, which alter tables. After that I will give you the complete syntax and explain how to read the complete syntax.

Example We continue with the wholesale example.

- Type the following commands in the command prompt to start the database and server and connect to the database through Interactive SQL; when you type one command, wait for it to take effect before you type the next:

cd c: dbeng12 -n wholesalesrv c:\wholesale\wholesale.db dbisql -c "server=wholesalesrv;DBF=c:\sholesale\wholesale.db;UID=DBA;PWD=sql"

- We shall add the CHECK constraint, CHECK (CostPrice > 0), to the CostPrice column of the Products table. Type the following statement in the SQL Statements pane in the Interactive SQL window and then click the Play Button in the Tools bar to execute the statement.

ALTER TABLE Products ALTER CostPrice ADD CHECK (CostPrice > 0);

All SQL statements end with semicolon. If everything goes well you should see result in the Results pane, otherwise a new window will appear indicating the error.

- Let us alter the SellingPrice column in the Products table in a similar way. Erase the present statement in the SQL Statement pane and type the following; click the Play Button or SQL>>Execute from the menu, for execution:

ALTER TABLE Products ALTER SellingPrice ADD CHECK (SellingPrice > 0);

It should be executed without errors. We shall now add Total columns in the Sales and Orders table.

- Erase the present SQL statement in the SQL Statement pane. Type and execute the following command:

ALTER TABLE Sales ADD TOTAL NUMERIC(19,2);

The SQL Statement should have been executed.

- You will now do a similar thing for the Orders table. Erase what you have just typed in the SQL Statement pane. Type and execute the following:

ALTER TABLE Orders ADD TOTAL NUMERIC(19,2);

A Total column is a computed value column. Sybase SQL Anywhere 12 gives you the possibility of typing in the formula (expression) that would do the calculation and put the answer there automatically; however I will not go into that in this part of the series.

Dropping a Table In simple terms the SQL statement syntax to drop a table is:

DROP TABLE table-name;

You will now create a table in the database and then drop it. Dropping a table means erasing the table from the database file.

- Erase what is in the SQL Statement pane in the Interactive SQL window; type and execute the following:

CREATE TABLE Purchase ( purchase_num INTEGER NOT NULL PRIMARY KEY, date_purchased DATE, name CHAR(80) );

You should now have a new table called Purchase.

- Now you will delete the table you have just created and have automatically saved. Erase what you have typed in the SQL Statement pane. Type the following and execute:

DROP TABLE Purchase;

The new table purchase should have been erased.

Let us now stop the connection, stop the database and stop the server.

- Close the Interactive SQL window; if it asks you to save anything, click No.

- Type the following command in the command prompt and press the Enter key to do the three stops; if it asks you to type Y, type it and press the Enter key.

dbstop wholesalesrv

Complete Syntax to Alter a Table The complete syntax of the SQL Statement to alter a table is given below; glance through it and read the explanation below it:

ALTER TABLE [owner.]table-name { alter-clause, ... }

alter-clause : ADD create-clause | ALTER column-name column-alteration | ALTER [ CONSTRAINT constraint-name ] CHECK ( condition ) | DROP drop-object | RENAME rename-object | table-alteration

create-clause : column-name [ AS ] column-data-type [ new-column-attribute ... ] | table-constraint | PCTFREE integer

column-alteration : { column-data-type | alterable-column-attribute } [ alterable-column-attribute ... ] | SET COMPUTE ( compute-expression ) | ADD [ constraint-name ] CHECK ( condition ) | DROP { DEFAULT | COMPUTE | CHECK | CONSTRAINT constraint-name }

drop-object : column-name | CHECK | CONSTRAINT constraint-name | UNIQUE [ CLUSTERED ] ( index-columns-list ) | FOREIGN KEY fkey-name | PRIMARY KEY

rename-object : new-table-name | column-name TO new-column-name | CONSTRAINT constraint-name TO new-constraint-name

table-alteration : PCTFREE DEFAULT | [ NOT ] ENCRYPTED

new-column-attribute : NULL | DEFAULT default-value | COMPRESSED | INLINE { inline-length | USE DEFAULT } | PREFIX { prefix-length | USE DEFAULT } | [ NO ] INDEX | IDENTITY | COMPUTE ( expression ) | column-constraint

table-constraint : [ CONSTRAINT constraint-name ] { CHECK ( condition ) | UNIQUE [ CLUSTERED | NONCLUSTERED ] ( column-name [ ASC | DESC ], ... ) | PRIMARY KEY [ CLUSTERED | NONCLUSTERED ] ( column-name [ ASC | DESC ], ... ) | foreign-key }

column-constraint : [ CONSTRAINT constraint-name ] { CHECK ( condition ) | UNIQUE [ CLUSTERED | NONCLUSTERED ] [ ASC | DESC ] | PRIMARY KEY [ CLUSTERED | NONCLUSTERED ] [ ASC | DESC ] | REFERENCES table-name [ ( column-name ) ] [ MATCH [ UNIQUE ] { SIMPLE | FULL } ] [ actions ][ CLUSTERED | NONCLUSTERED ] | NOT NULL }

alterable-column-attribute : [ NOT ] NULL | DEFAULT default-value | [ CONSTRAINT constraint-name ] CHECK { NULL | ( condition ) } | [ NOT ] COMPRESSED | INLINE { inline-length | USE DEFAULT } | PREFIX { prefix-length | USE DEFAULT } | [ NO ] INDEX

default-value : special-value | string | global variable | [ - ] number | ( constant-expression ) | built-in-function ( constant-expression ) | AUTOINCREMENT | GLOBAL AUTOINCREMENT [ ( partition-size ) ] | NULL | TIMESTAMP | UTC TIMESTAMP | LAST USER | USER

special-value : CURRENT { DATABASE | DATE | REMOTE USER | TIME | TIMESTAMP | UTC TIMESTAMP | USER | PUBLISHER }

foreign-key : [ NOT NULL ] FOREIGN KEY [ role-name ] [ ( column-name [ ASC | DESC ], ... ) REFERENCES table-name [ ( pkey-column-list ) ] [ MATCH [ UNIQUE] { SIMPLE | FULL } ] [ actions ] [ CHECK ON COMMIT ] [ CLUSTERED ] [ FOR OLAP WORKLOAD ]

actions : [ ON UPDATE action ] [ ON DELETE action ]

action : CASCADE | SET NULL | SET DEFAULT | RESTRICT

[Collapse/expand section] Syntax 2 - Disabling view dependencies

Explaining the Syntax I will just explain how I came about the following statement:

ALTER TABLE Products ALTER CostPrice ADD CHECK (CostPrice > 0);

I used this statement above to add a CHECK constraint to the CostPrice column of the Products table.

The complete syntax is in sections. The lower you go down the syntax the more details you find about a word or phrase above in the syntax. In the syntax, | means and/or; anything in square brackets is optional; consider the word, expression, as a column name or value; phrases or words in lower case should be replaced by names of your choice in your SQL statement.

The first line in the syntax is:

ALTER TABLE [owner.]table-name { alter-clause, ... }

From this first line, I got

ALTER TABLE Products

for my own statement and I then proceeded to the details of, alter-clause, in the syntax. From the second line of the details of, alter clause, I got

ALTER CostPrice

for my statement. The second line of the details of, alter clause, ends with, column-alteration. I then went to the details of, column-alteration, and from the third line of the details of, column-alteration, I got,

ADD CHECK (CostPrice > 0)

for my statement.

That is the kind of procedure you should follow to determine your own Altering SQL statements. You should apply the same reasoning to understand other syntaxes in Sybase, such as the CREATE TABLE syntax we saw in one of the previous parts of the series.

Time to take a break. Let us stop here and continue in the next part.

Chrys

To arrive at any of the parts of this division, type the corresponding title below in the search box of this page and click Search (use menu if available).

Implementing Database in Sybase - Part 1 Implementing Database in Sybase - Part 2 Implementing Database in Sybase - Part 3 Implementing Database in Sybase - Part 4 Implementing Database in Sybase - Part 5 Implementing Database in Sybase - Part 6 Implementing Database in Sybase - Part 7 Implementing Database in Sybase - Part 8 Implementing Database in Sybase - Part 9 Implementing Database in Sybase - Part 10





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